Nasu in Tochigi Prefecture might not be a destination many foreign visitors have heard of, but for me, it’s a place full of cherished memories and serene beauty. Recently, I visited Nasu with my mother to see my newly renovated mountain lodge and to enjoy the fine dining and soothing hot springs at Sanraku Ryokan. Though it was a short trip, it was an unforgettable experience filled with warmth, relaxation, and a touch of nostalgia.
In this blog, I’ll share the highlights of our trip, along with some insights about Nasu’s history, attractions, and why it’s a must-visit destination for anyone seeking an authentic Japanese escape.
Why Nasu? A Special Place
I chose Nasu for this trip because my newly renovated mountain lodge is located there. My mother, now in her 80s, and I have many fond memories of Nasu from our family visits in the past, so it felt special go and see the renovated lodge and relive some of those moments. We also stayed at Sanraku Ryokan, a prestigious and traditional inn near the Goyotei, the Imperial Family’s vacation retreat.
Nasu offers a sense of peace and authenticity that’s hard to find in more crowded destinations like Karuizawa. It’s a hidden gem that combines stunning natural beauty, historical significance, and modern comforts.
Our Itinerary: A Relaxing 1-Night Escape
Day 1: From Tokyo to Serenity
We left Tokyo at 11:03 a.m. on the Tohoku Shinkansen, arriving at Nasu-Shiobara Station in just over an hour. After a brief stop at my mountain lodge to see the completion of the renovation, we checked into Sanraku Ryokan around 2:30 p.m. The rest of the day was spent unwinding in the serene atmosphere of the ryokan, soaking in the outdoor hot spring (rotenburo), chilling in the lounge with free flowing wine and sake overlooking a snow-falling Japanese garden, and enjoying a luxurious kaiseki dinner served in our room.
Day 2: A Cozy Morning and Back to Tokyo
After a morning bath in onsen and a traditional Japanese breakfast again served in our room, we checked out of Sanraku and took a free shuttle service to the Nasu-Shiobara Station. We enjoyed a short stay at a cozy café near the Station while waiting for the Shinkansen back to Tokyo, which brought us home by 2:30 p.m.
Sanraku Ryokan: A Haven of Tranquility
Staying at Sanraku is an experience in itself. Located near the Imperial Family’s vacation home, it offers unmatched serenity, exceptional service, and a true taste of traditional Japanese hospitality.
What I Loved:
- Outdoor Hot Spring (Rotenburo): Bathing in the warm waters while surrounded by nature is pure bliss, especially in winter when snow begins to fall.
- Exquisite Kaiseki Dining: Both dinner and breakfast were served in our room by a gracious nakai-san (attendant). Highlights included Nasu beef and a delightful yuba shabu-shabu, which was served in a small pot flavored with yuzu.
- Lounge overlooking a beautiful Japanese garden: from 16-18pm, we could enjoy a free flowing wine and sake, as long as other soft drinks and snacks while sitting by the big window overlooking a serene and beautiful Japanese garden.
- Attention to Detail: From the perfectly prepared meals to the serene atmosphere, every aspect of Sanraku felt luxurious yet welcoming.
While Sanraku isn’t a bargain, I found it reasonably priced for the high level of service and experience it provides. If you’re looking to pamper yourself or your loved ones, I highly recommend it.
Highlights of the Trip
The Charm of Onsen in Winter
One of the best things about Nasu is its hot springs. While we focused on Sanraku’s onsen this time, there are plenty of options for visitors, including public baths and day-visit onsens. For instance, Matsukawaya Ryokan, located at the top of the Nasu Onsen area, offers stunning views from its outdoor bath and is open for day visitors.
Snow-Capped Scenery
Our trip in early December coincided with the first snowfall, creating a magical winter landscape. Interestingly, the foliage had lingered unusually long this year, with autumn colors still visible until late November. Nasu’s natural beauty shines year-round, but winter has its own special charm, especially when paired with a steaming onsen.
A Cozy Café Stop
While waiting for our train, we visited a café near Nasu-Shiobara Station and enjoyed a warm cup of hot chocolate. The staff were welcoming and didn’t mind that we lingered for almost two hours. Small, heartwarming moments like this made our trip even more memorable.
Nostalgia at Michinoku Souvenir Shop
Although we didn’t have time to visit on this trip, my mother and I reminisced about our past visits to Michinoku, a traditional souvenir shop in Nasu Onsen. This shop has been part of my childhood memories, and their amazake (sweet non-alcoholic sake) is a must-try. It’s a lovely place to pick up authentic Japanese souvenirs and enjoy light snacks while admiring the forest view.
How to Get to Nasu
Traveling to Nasu is both convenient and affordable, especially from Tokyo:
By Shinkansen
- Take the Tohoku Shinkansen from Tokyo to Nasu-Shiobara Station (around 70 minutes).
- Round-trip fares can cost less than ¥10,000 if booked in advance online with a 30% discount.
- Buses and taxis are available from the Nasu-Shiobara JR station to major destinations.
- There are also all major rental car shops at the Nasu-Shiobara station if you prefer driving yourself once you are in Nasu.
By Car
- Driving takes around 2.5 hours via the Tohoku Expressway.
- While convenient for exploring off-the-beaten-path locations, tolls and rental fees may make it less economical for solo or small group travelers.
Why Nasu is a Must-Visit
Unlike Karuizawa, Nasu retains its authentic rural charm. It’s an ideal destination for those who love:
- Nature and Outdoor Activities: With its high altitude, Nasu offers cool summers and stunning winter landscapes.
- Onsens: The mineral-rich waters of Nasu’s hot springs are healing and rejuvenating.
- Food and Culture: From local specialties like Nasu beef, dairy, beer to its growing café scene, there’s something for every foodie.
Nasu is also part of Nikko National Park, and a portion of the Imperial Family’s forest has been converted into a public park, thanks to the generosity of a former tenor. This makes Nasu not just a place of relaxation but also one of cultural and natural significance.
The Wrap
My trip to Nasu with my mother was short but filled with joy, nostalgia, and unforgettable experiences. Whether you’re looking for a serene getaway, a culinary adventure, or a rejuvenating hot spring retreat, Nasu has something for everyone.
If you’re planning your next trip to Japan, consider Nasu for an authentic and less-crowded alternative to other popular destinations. You’ll fall in love with its beauty, warmth, and charm— just like I have. Maybe we will find each other at one of the cafes in Nasu.
