— A mindful spring escape to onsen, ramen, and a quietly revived town
After a serene winter visit to Nasu with my mother a few months ago (see Trip to Nasu – A Relaxing Getaway from Tokyo), I found myself drawn back to this mountain town — this time in early spring, with my husband. While it’s common to revisit places we love, what surprised me was how different the same region can feel when explored in a different season and a different purpose. This trip wasn’t about sightseeing highlights — it was about quiet discoveries, spontaneous detours, and rediscovering familiar places with fresh eyes while getting my newly renovated mountain lodge ready for the upcoming season.
Best way to Get to Nasu: Train + Local Car Rental
If you’re heading to Nasu from Tokyo, here’s a smart combo: take the Shinkansen to Nasushiobara Station (just 75 minutes from Tokyo), then rent a small car right at the station. We used JR Rent-a-Car, and there was a brand new compact, easy-to-drive vehicle available (I recommend booking in advance). This setup is not only faster and more relaxing than driving from Tokyo yourself, but also more cost-effective if you are a solo or a couple traveler — especially when you factor in highway tolls, fuel, and fatigue.
If you book your Shinkansen ticket via Eki-net in advance, you may receive up to 30% off the regular fare (of around ¥6,000 one-way). Alternatively, if you’re traveling with a Japan Rail Pass, that covers your train journey entirely. Both options make this region incredibly accessible without needing to navigate a long highway drive. (read my earlier blog How to navigate train systems in Japan for more Rail Pass info)
First Stop: A Fiery Welcome at Homura Ramen
Soon after we picked up the car, we made our first (and very rewarding) stop at a local ramen shop called Homura — which means “flame” in Japanese. A friendly staff member at the JR car rental counter recommended it to us, saying it’s popular with both locals and tourists. That was no exaggeration — when we arrived a bit before noon, there was already a queue of about 20 people!
After about a 30-minute wait, we were invited inside to purchase our food tickets from a vending machine. We both ordered their specialty chashu ramen (¥1,210). After another short wait, we were seated at a cozy ozashiki (tatami floor) table, where we took off our shoes and relaxed in a corner spot.
The shop is run by just two people — a noodle chef behind the counter and a multitasking server who manages everything from seating to service. No wonder it runs on a slow rhythm. But the reward? Fresh handmade noodles and richly flavored broth, clearly prepared with care. Homura isn’t for the rushed — but if you’ve got time and an appetite, it’s absolutely worth the detour.
Soaking in History at Shikanoyu Onsen
Many visitors to Nasu flock to the plateau area — Nasu Kogen — but fewer venture up into the small hot spring town of Nasu Onsen, which is a bit of a loss. Nestled higher in the mountains, this charming onsen town is home to Shikanoyu, one of the region’s oldest and most iconic public baths.
Shikanoyu’s name means “Deer Spring,” rooted in a legend that an injured deer discovered the healing waters centuries ago. The onsen is considered the source spring of the Nasu Onsen area, and has been cherished by locals, monks, and even members of the imperial family for generations.
Though our own lodge had hot spring water, the bath wasn’t quite warm enough this time — so we made the decision to go out and experience Shikanoyu. And we’re glad we did. The path to the onsen has been beautified and cleaned up — a nice blend of old and new. Inside, the baths range from 42°C to 46°C, and I heard the men’s side even had a 48°C option!
Don’t be surprised to see a sign recommending you do kakeyu (pre-bath pouring) 100 times before entering. Coin lockers are available for valuables, and there’s parking nearby or just up the hill in front of the Nasu Onsen Tourist Office, which also serves as a bus stop.
Nasuonsen Temple and Sesshoseki
Not far from Shikanoyu, you’ll find Nasuonsen Temple, a humble yet quietly atmospheric place that has recently upgraded its stone steps. From there, a short walk takes you to the famous Sesshoseki, or the “Killing Stone.”
According to folklore, Sesshoseki is the place where the spirit of a mythical nine-tailed fox was sealed after causing destruction. The area used to feel a bit rugged, but today it features improved wooden walkways and viewing decks, making it easily accessible. It’s a short and scenic stroll — suitable for all levels.
If you’re up for it, you can even continue hiking beyond Sesshoseki into the Nasu Mountain range. I used to hike here when I was more athletic, and it’s still a great trail for nature lovers looking for more than a casual walk.
Kuroiso’s Quiet Comeback: Coffee and Creative Energy
Before the Shinkansen brought high-speed rail to Nasushiobara, the town of Kuroiso was the original gateway to Nasu. I remember getting off at Kuroiso Station as a child, surrounded by traditional souvenir shops and the buzz of vacationers. But with newer routes now taking over, Kuroiso had to find a new identity.
Enter Café SHOZO, which quietly opened in the 1980s and became a local anchor for creativity and community. Around it, small lifestyle shops and galleries have slowly transformed the main street into a charming little district. It’s now attracting a wave of Tokyo transplants looking for a slower, more intentional pace of life.
We finally visited this area and enjoyed coffee and cake at SHOZO before heading back to Tokyo. The café was as warm and welcoming as I had hoped, and the whole neighborhood had a calm, quietly evolving energy. If you enjoy places with character — not crowds — Kuroiso is worth a stop.
The Wrap
Returning to Nasu reminded me that travel isn’t always about new places — sometimes it’s about seeing familiar places with new eyes. From the earthy heat of Shikanoyu to the patience-rewarding ramen shop, from folklore trails to nostalgic train stations — Nasu offers a rare mix of tradition, nature, and understated charm.
And here’s a quiet tip:
I have a feeling that Nasu is still one of those few places untouched by the flood of foreign tourists. But the clock is ticking. If you’re looking for a place that still holds the essence of a traditional Japanese summer retreat — go now, while it’s still serene, still local, and still beautifully LoKee.
