On a perfect spring Sunday — a breezy 20°C (68°F) day under cloudy skies — my husband and I set out for a slow, scenic walk along the Sumida River. What started as a casual stroll turned into a 10km adventure full of surprising discoveries, tucked-away food spots, and quiet pockets of nature in the heart of Tokyo.
We walked from Fukagawa (around where Matsuo-Basho River-viewing Garden) all the way to Oshiage, where the Tokyo Skytree towers above the city. Along the way, we found three unexpected gems — each offering its own slice of serenity, creativity, or charm.
1. Kyu-Yasuda Garden: A Free, Serene Oasis in Ryogoku
Thanks to recent improvements along the Sumida River walkways — including newly built pedestrian bridges — you can now walk uninterrupted from Tsukuda to Asakusa, without having to dip back into busy public streets. We briefly detoured from the river walk near the Kokugikan Sumo Stadium in search of a restroom (a classic travel moment!), and that’s when we unexpectedly stumbled upon (Kyu-)Yasuda Garden, tucked beside the Sword Museum. What began as a practical pause turned into one of the highlights of our walk.
What surprised me most? It’s completely free to enter — unlike other classic gardens like Hamarikyu or Kiyosumi Garden. The space, while modest in size, is beautifully designed around a pond shaped like the Japanese character for “heart” (心). We wandered along the circular path, admiring changing views framed by surrounding greenery and tall buildings beyond. Turtles and ducks lounged lazily by the water, and visitors (like us) rested on benches or quietly explored. A small but cozy tea house sits tucked inside, and the garden is open through three unobtrusive gates — welcoming but not overrun.
We stayed for about 30 minutes, though it easily felt longer — the kind of place where time slows down just enough.
2. Asakusa Side Streets: Beyond the Nakamise Crowds
By the time we reached Asakusa, Nakamise Street was—unsurprisingly—packed with weekend crowds. Instead of braving the bustle, we veered off to the parallel side street and were quickly rewarded with a delightful change of pace.
Here, local food shops and eateries lined the street, each offering something a little more creative than the usual fare. One shop called UmetoHoshi specialized in umeboshi teishoku (pickled plum set meals) — attracting many hungry visitors. Another sold beautifully decorated dango (sticky rice snack) with toppings like chocolate and fresh strawberries. My husband grabbed his go-to soft cream, while I was sorely tempted by a matcha soft cream (craving it, in fact), but managed to hold back knowing we’d stop for coffee later.
Oddly, melon pan (melon looking bread with whip cream inside) seemed to be having a moment too — maybe just the right mix of nostalgic and Instagrammable for today’s travelers.
If you’re planning to visit Senso-ji, I recommend steering away from the main drag and heading up via the side streets. You’ll not only avoid the crowds but also find foods and flavors that are probably more creative, new-generation-like, and definitely more LoKee.
3. Sumida River Walk to Oshiage: Youthful Vibes & Riverside Cafés
From Asakusa, we headed toward the Sumida River Walk — a new pedestrian bridge that connects the east side of the river to Oshiage. Once you reach the river (you’ll see the Tokyo Skytree straight ahead and Tully’s Coffee as your landmark), turn right along the river and follow the footpath to the bridge.
On the other side, Sumida Park greets you — and to the right is a rising hub of riverside life called Tokyo Mizumachi. Built beneath the elevated train tracks, this new development is split into two sections: one next to Sumida Park, and another closer to the Skytree. Both are lined with cozy restaurants, independent shops, and even a hostel — all with a distinctly local, startup feel.
We stopped at LATTEST Sports, as it hosts a chill café with wide open windows where the breeze flows in. I had a delicious mocha latte, and my husband enjoyed his chai latte as we relaxed, surrounded by a quiet energy that felt worlds away from Asakusa’s buzz — yet only minutes apart.
This riverside area gave me a youthful, entrepreneurial feeling. No major chains. No tourist traps. Just locals doing what they love in a space that finally recognizes the beauty of the river. As someone who lives by the water myself, it made me genuinely happy to see Tokyo finally embracing its riverside potential.
If you are interested in one day itinerary of east Tokyo, check out below blog.
Bonus Tip: Lunch Off the Tourist Trail in Kinshicho
Rather than eating near the Skytree (where prices are higher and options more tourist-focused), we walked a bit further to Kinshicho, a vibrant neighborhood full of local dining spots.
We first considered Kameido Gyoza, a no-frills gyoza joint my husband loves — but the line was long. If you’re patient (or come on a weekday), it’s definitely worth checking out. Instead, we popped into a restaurant in Marui next door and had a satisfying, local-priced lunch before heading home.
Final Thoughts
This half-day walk reminded me of why I love slow travel — especially in a city like Tokyo, where beauty and discovery often lie just one street or footbridge away. From serene gardens and surprise snacks to riverside cafés and startup vibes, the walk from Fukagawa to Oshiage offers so much more than just steps on a map.
So next time you find yourself near the Sumida River, take a detour — or better yet, take your time.
